From Cadí to Els Ports: 7 refuges to escape to this autumn

When we think of a mountain refuge, our brains go on autopilot and, almost instinctively, conjure up a high-mountain landscape, probably in the Pyrenees. Add a loaded backpack and boots, and you're likely in the summer, perhaps in the middle of a Carros de Foc or Cavalls del Vent trek. Our collective imagination is captivated by long-distance routes and peak season. And that's understandable, but there's more to mountain refuges than that. This is the premise that motivated geographer and travel journalist Laura Masó to lace up her boots. "I saw it as a necessity. There was a certain lack of information," says Masó, who maintains that a guide was needed, a physical resource to bring order to the situation. "The information was fragmented; each entity offered its own, but there wasn't a single place to consult it all." Above all, she detected a black hole regarding unstaffed refuges. "These are the most basic refuges, and often the adventure begins before you even arrive, simply by calling the town hall or the relevant organization to get the key."

The search result is the guide 101 mountain refuges in Catalonia (Cosetania), a diverse and deterritorialized guide that breaks with the idea that the Catalan mountains are only in the Pyrenees. "So that not everyone goes to the same places. People are very surprised that there are mountain huts in the Tarragona region!" says the journalist.

The guide arrives at a time when the role of mountain huts is no longer what it was fifty years ago. "They have changed quite a bit. The first ones were built with the very clear aim of getting closer to the summits. They were shepherds' huts, old buildings, or workers' barracks for those who carried out work in the mountain areas," explains Masó. They are still a very important point for bringing people closer to nature, but the public has changed. "It's no longer just about accessing the high mountains, but about discovering the natural environment, cycling, going as a family, or enjoying a meal."

The "popularization" and the "need to experience nature" have led Masó to include in the guide "some very basic rules that perhaps not everyone knows." It's a necessary reminder of the philosophy behind mountain refuges, to know what to expect, how to feel at ease and comfortable, and how to connect with the environment. And to differentiate between their various types. There are staffed refuges, which offer food and lodging; unstaffed refuges, where you'll find no one and self-management is total; and refuge-hostels, which are often located within a town or city and can be reached by car.

Now that snow is beginning to appear on the peaks and the cold is starting to set in, the question is inevitable: where would you recommend going during the autumn? "There are areas where there's no snow now, and the routes are usually of medium or low difficulty," Masó points out, citing areas around the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, Pallars, Ports, Berguedà, and Ripollès. With this in mind, we've chosen seven of the mountain huts highlighted in the guide, perfect bases for an autumn getaway.

It's a classic, yes, but autumn suits it perfectly. At the foot of the north face of Pedraforca, in the municipality of Gisclareny, this staffed refuge (45 beds) is much more than just a base camp for climbers. In autumn, the summit can wait; the magic lies in the forest. "There's the beech forest, which is very beautiful," Masó points out. The Fageda i Mirador route (10.87 km, +741 m) suggested in the guidebook is the perfect excuse. It's mushroom season, time to crunch through fallen leaves, and to enjoy one of the most spectacular beech forests in the country. It's also a strategic point for treks like Cavalls del Vent or the GR-107.

This is a perfect example of what the guidebook calls a refuge-hostel. Located "in the heart of the municipality of Arbolí," it has 16 beds and is easily accessible by car. It's a classic meeting point for climbers, who have access to the area's limestone cliffs, but increasingly popular with hikers. It offers homemade, seasonal food and has its own cultural program. In autumn, when the area's heat subsides, the guidebook highlights an interesting route: "a visit to the abandoned village of Gallicant," an easy (6.95 km, +226 m) and "spectacular" hike for understanding the depopulation of this region.

In Espinavell (Molló), the village's old schoolhouse was renovated in 2013 into a privately run, 50-bed mountain refuge. It's a comfortable hostel and a perfect base for exploring the Camprodon Valley. "It's right in the village, accessible by car, and a great starting point for exploring the valley," explains Masó. From here, you can head to higher areas of the Ter and Freser Headwaters Natural Park, although in autumn, a good plan is to enjoy the tranquility of the forests. There are routes for all levels, from the challenging 34.6 km loop around Costabona to the ascent of Mount Moscós (5.55 km, +669 m).

It's a hidden gem, a clear commitment to de-territorialization. In Llagunes (Soriguera), the old school buildings are now a refuge-hostel (23 beds) born from a grassroots initiative in the heart of an "unknown valley." Home to the Museum of Paths, it includes a project that, with the help of volunteers, transforms the old cobblestone paths into museums. Autumn is the perfect time to discover this heritage in quiet contemplation: routes to explore the area around Llagunes or the Les Fonts route (just 4.28 km and +58 m) offer a journey to a more leisurely Pallars region. (Note: payment is cash only).

Here we enter adventure territory. This is an unguarded mountain refuge (30 beds), the old village school of Bassegoda, now an open space with bunk beds and a fireplace. As Masó points out, it's important to contact the Empordà Hiking Club, the organization that manages it, to get the keys. It's the perfect base for exploring the Alta Garrotxa in autumn, a wild, damp, and solitary region, full of holm oak and oak forests. Ideal for climbing Mount Bassegoda (7.46 km, +620 m), a spectacular viewpoint between the Empordà and the Garrotxa regions.

In Envall, a village abandoned for over thirty years, a cooperative project has breathed new life into Casa Bigodé. This staffed refuge (24 beds) is much more than just a place to sleep: it's a cultural rehabilitation project. It offers artist residencies and a clear philosophy of modernity, comfort, and sustainability, featuring vegetarian and locally sourced cuisine. It's a place to visit in autumn not only for hiking but also to understand how heritage can be restored. The circular routes from Envall or towards La Pobleta and El Cogulló (12.98 km, +756 m) are perfect for enjoying the colors of the Brea forest.

Here's one of Tarragona's great surprises and proof that there's life (and plenty of it) beyond the Pyrenees. In Els Ports, this staffed mountain refuge (34 beds), which has just changed management, is a fantastic base. "It's large, ideal for groups," the author points out. And she suggests: "It's a great place for chestnut roasts." Nature here is wild and powerful, and in autumn it's easier to spot wildlife. "It's easy to see wild goats that often come right up to you; people are surprised." Ideal for routes through the massif, such as the ascent of Monte Caro (7.48 km, +408 m) or, for the more adventurous, long mountain bike routes.