Pirinexus: a five-day bike tour of the Girona region.

Girona / Olot / Espinavel / Capmany / Torroella de MontgríIn mid-May I turned 37, a date when you're dangerously close to forty, and I thought it was time to start them off with a good challenge to keep going strong. A couple of years ago I pedal a gravel bike through Girona and I wanted to try cycling from home with everything you need to sleep away. It's what many have come to name bikepacking, although in my case I wanted to avoid carrying a tent and all the food, because I didn't intend to be self-sufficient. One route in particular caught my attention: what if I circumnavigated the Girona region in five days, traveling by bike for an average of eight hours? That's how my personal birthday present began, on a trip supported by the Greenways Consortium and the Girona-Costa Brava Tourist Board, which provided the accommodation.

Years ago, I had hiked the Camino de Santiago up to three times: the French Way, the Northern Way, and the Fisterra section. When I discovered the Pirinexus link, which takes you from the Pyrenees to the Costa Brava over a distance of about 350 kilometers and approximately 3,600 meters of elevation gain, I couldn't believe I had a great bike route to do, leaving from home, and that few Girona residents had actually discovered it. So, my personal passion combined with my professional passion, creating a short guide to discovering the hidden corners of home while pedaling.

12 years of history

The Pirinexus route, created in the spring of 2013 with European funding, is part of the routes promoted by Ecovies of Girona and links the regions of Alt and Baix Empordà, Gironès, La Selva, La Garrotxa, and Ripollès with Vallespir. It covers all the Catalan-speaking territories on both sides of the border and connects the Pyrenees, which are crossed twice—through the Ares pass and through the Panissars pass in La Jonquera—with the Costa Brava. Along the route, sections of greenways, such as the Carrilet route or the Iron and Coal route, are combined with networks of rural paths and low-traffic roads.

Some people do it as a sporting challenge, like the Pirinexus Challenge –created in 2014 by Jordi Cantal and held for seven editions with a record of completing it in just 12 hours–, but in a context of Boom in cycle tourism in Girona and surrounding areas, it is becoming more and more common as a different way of gradually getting to know our country's heritage in the midst of nature.

Ecovias de Girona, the new brand representing the Greenways Consortium, points out that they are finding cases of couples or groups—not a recommended route for families with young children—who complete the route in a week or more. They take advantage of the opportunity to make longer stops and branch off routes that allow them to better discover the cultural, natural, and gastronomic heritage. For example, from Olot, discover the volcanoes and the Jordan Beech Forest. In Sant Martí de Empúries, the Greek and Roman ruins. Or from Cassà de la Selva, take the thermal route that leads to Caldes from Malavella, where the Roman ruins of the ancient baths are also located, and thus take the opportunity to explore the La Selva region.

The two most demanding stages are those that cross Ripollès and Vallespir until crossing the border at La Jonquera, where the path after the Panissars pass is quite technical, with steep trails. But the rest, with a fat tire or electric bike, can be done very well chino-xano. This is the case of Nela and Johan, a retired Dutch couple who are doing the tour in six days from Estartit, where they have left their motorhome. We met just outside Girona, in the pastures of Salt. "We wanted to cycle to Spain and looked for a famous route that wasn't too far from home and we found the Pirinexus on the Internet "—they explain enthusiastically—"And the route looked great: hills, mountains, the Pyrenees, and a little bit of France." We'll meet them again at the end of their journey, thrilled to arrive in Sant Martí d'Empúries without any incident.

Travel differently

One advantage of the Pirinexus route over other routes is that it can be easily started by train from Girona, where you can take your bike mounted on the commuter and medium-distance trains or dismounted on high-speed trains. This is what Adrià and Albert, two young men from Sabadell, did. They had a few days of vacation and wanted to pedal. "We have to take advantage of the fact that we have very well-established Ecovías here in Girona," says Albert, who had done the Carrilet a couple of times, saw signs that said Pirinexus and planned the route through the web.

The Greenways Consortium recommends traveling clockwise to avoid the Tramuntana Mountains. This can be a challenge in Vallespir and Empordà, especially. After traveling 340 kilometers through my homeland, it's hard to choose the best stretches of the trail. That's why I invite you to discover them.

Stage 1

Following the old Carrilet between the Ter and volcanoes

The old railway track layout The route that connected Sant Feliu de Guíxols with Girona and Olot until 1969 is now a paradise for cyclists, but especially for the local residents, who are the ones who enjoy it the most.This greenway created The 1990s. Despite the increase in cycle tourism, 92% of those who use them are residents, and of these, 71% travel on foot, according to the latest study commissioned by the Consorci. We confirmed this when we crossed areas, especially near towns such as Salt, Bescanó, Inglés, La Cellera, Amer, and Les Planes d'Hostoles.

From Girona, the route follows the Ter to Pasteral, then the Brugent until reaching the Col de Bas, the highest point of this first section of the Pirinexus (589 meters above sea level), and finally the Fluvià valley. It was at Carrilet that I learned to ride a bike as a child, concentrating hard to avoid falling into the nettle-filled ditches that flowed from the Monar irrigation channel. Now the orchards of Santa Eugenia and Salt are experiencing an attempt at recovery after years of neglect and illegal dumping. But at the same time they are faced with the difficulties of accessing the water of the Ter. The canals accompany the passage of the Carrilet with floodgates of Noucentista architecture of great historical value.

After passing the Pasteral intake and the first climb that will make us lose our breath – anecdotal if we think of the Coll d'Ares or the Coll de Panissars that will come later –, we arrive at Amer, where Its ancient monastery awaits usTo get there, you'll need to take a detour. The same will apply to most points of interest along the route, which I recommend planning ahead. The Carrilet detours again as it reaches Les Planes de Hostoles, but we stop at Orígens, a bioconstruction school that has become a benchmark in training and revival of techniques such as dry stone, natural lime cladding, and straw construction. Its courtyard, in the former Les Planes nursery, is an example of the effectiveness of returning to working with natural materials.

Amidst the green slopes where the railways once ran, and with the splashing of the Brugent's multitude of pools –where in summer you must reserve a ticket–, we arrive at Sant Feliu de Pallerols. Now all that's left is the climb to the Bas pass to enter the land of volcanoes. For those who want to get involved, there's Quince Huevos in Las Presas. For more frugal meals, there's the very interesting option of Forn de la Fogaina. The entrance to Olot, the icing on the cake, passes through the Parque de la Piedra Tosca and the Athletics Stadium. A masterful gift of landscaping by RCR Architects in your city.

Stage 2

Along the Iron and Coal Route to a shelter

Although I want to look for similarities, the Way of St. James and Pirinexus are not the same. There isn't a constant supply of hostels to sleep in, and prior logistics are necessary to find accommodations equipped for bicycles or to pack a tent for camping. This second stage leaves from the Hotel La Perla in Olot. And before crossing the border via the Ares pass, we spend the night at the Espinavell refuge, founded the same year as Pirinexus (2013) thanks to the tenacity and enthusiasm of a restless journalist who left Barcelona two decades ago to settle in a village of 35 inhabitants at the end of the Camprod valley.

Between these two points, the first mountain passes await us. Just outside Olot, a secondary road winds up to the Coubet pass, between La Garrotxa and Ripollès. And among spectacular beech forests, we reach the Santigosa pass. It's May, and we're very lucky to have the first day in weeks that it hasn't rained in the region. Only one roadworks accompanies us the entire way to Sant Joan de les Abadesses, where we once again have to detour through the visit the thousand-year-old monasteryIn the apse is the Descent from the Cross, better known as the Most Holy Mystery, cut in 1250 and the only Romanesque structure that has been fully preserved. You also can't miss the Pont Vell and the Gorg de la Malatosca, where the Iron and Coal Route from Ripoll turns off towards Ogassa.

As on the way out of Girona to Pasteral, the Ter River once again takes center stage on the route as we cross fields, dams, settlements, and old wagon tracks that remind us of the area's industrial and mining past. Near Sant Pau de Segúries, we pass the entrance to But the Hall, where a group of young people They have promoted a land regeneration cooperative and the reopening of La Lluerna, the only store that only sells books in Ripoll. And Camprodon greets us with its picture-perfect bridge. The path begins to climb towards the border via the Ares pass. Molló gives us a break to rest on the lawn of the Romanesque church of Santa Cecília, with its spectacular lock. But to get there, we have to make one last effort, as in Espinavell, where Martínez is waiting for us at the shelter with some horse ribs—the meat he has been salvaging for years from the recently closed Can Jordi restaurant—that are finger-licking good.

Stage 3

Crossing the Pyrenees twice in a single day

At the foot of the Costabona, Espinavell is a strategically located town to take advantage of the maximum light on winter days. Every October 13, the mountain is transformed by the choice of mules, when hundreds of head of cattle descend on the fair. It was on a day like this 21 years ago that Eva Martínez decided to buy her house. When the economic crisis was still lingering, and there was little business at the restaurant, she looked out the window at the Els Estudis building. "I thought something should be done here in the schools," she recalls. "And I've been managing the shelter for twelve years now." After a night spent warming up with Martínez's stories and projects, we embark on the longest stage: we'll cross the Pyrenees twice in a single day, as well as the entire Vallespir.

Ahead of us lies the final climb to the Ares pass. The spring sun contrasts with the memories of the retreat in early 1939, when thousands of women, men, and children crossed the mountains fleeing fascist repression. A monument in French and various Timeworn plaques remind us of this, accompanied by a banner encouraging the union of the peasantry of the south and the north From Catalonia. We're entering France, but the language still unites us. The long descent to Prats de Molló is an early gift. Canigó is still covered in snow, and at the end of the curves, market day awaits us.

It is from here that Francesc Macià attempted to invade Catalonia in 1926. then under the dictatorship of Primo de Rivera. Also from where Many maquis came out at night who had nothing to envy Kilian Jornet, who made regular forays into Franco's Spain. Prats de Molló is located next to the Tec River, which will accompany us for much of the route to Boló, when we turn off to cross the border again.

Ceret: the Mecca of Cubism

At first, you'll have to cover a lot of road through Northern Catalonia, but since it's all downhill, it's already a good start. From Arles del Tec, we follow a well-maintained old railway line that will accompany us until we connect with the Eurovélo 8. Along the way, you definitely have to turn off to Ceret. cherry city and Mecca of Cubism, before crossing the Devil's Bridge (14th century), the largest medieval bridge ever built with a single arch. On the walk in front of the Museum of Modern Art One can imagine how artists such as Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque paraded at the beginning of the 20th century.

Leaving Ceret by bike in May is a spectacle, with all the cherry trees laden with fruit. Now the hardest part begins once you reach Boló and Morellàs and the Islands between vineyards: the beautiful climb to the Panissars pass, with views of Castell de Bellaguarda, which may be closed due to fire risk in summer. Crossing the border becomes difficult once we pass the ruins of the priory on the banks of the Pertús. Six kilometers of poor road surface begin. The difficulty of completing this section depends on the bike used and the cyclist's fitness level. "This is the section that presents us with the most maintenance challenges," says Àngel Planas, manager of the Greenways Consortium. "We have a series of improvements valued at around 220,000 euros pending implementation." However, funding should come through a European program if the application is accepted.

After crossing the high-speed train line and the AP-7, you finally reach La Jonquera and pass by the Exile Memorial Museum, this time through the town center. We'll leave the shopping district and suddenly enter the megalithic landscape of Capmany, at the foot of the Albera Mountains. We enter the Empordà region, and the vineyards greet us.

Stage 4

Empordà in its purest form: vineyards, marshes and the Mediterranean

Capmany is home to 700 people, but there are as many as nine wineries. Mayor Joan Fuentes (Juntos) and Councilor for Culture Pep Pallarols proudly point this out. They came to find us while we were having dinner in the Plaza del Fort during a night of live music. They explained that where we were staying, Can Xicu, was the former home of the lords of Capmany, now converted into a cozy rural inn with three double rooms bearing the seal of approval. bike-friendly.

The town has translated its pride in having the oldest cooperative winery in the Empordà, dating back to 1916, "into a symbol of the distant past that aims to be a projection into the future, a tourism centered around wine," explains Pallarols. This is happening in Parral and in the Vivent Museum in Capmany, with a clear reference to the north wind that shapes the Albera and a Mediterranean forest of unique aromatic plants, as he defends. the actor and perfumer Ernesto Collado from Mas Flaquer to Cantallops.

Without realizing it, we've reached midday, talking about vineyards. And we begin the route through the Empordà plain in full sun. Today is easy, with minimal elevation gain, but the wind will be against us for a while. Peralada welcomes us with its castle and the winery also designed by RCR Architects, winner of the 2017 Pritzker Prize, which blends into the landscape, taking advantage of a ten-meter drop. We'll soon see the Castelló d'Empúries basilica in the distance, an example of Catalan Gothic architecture. Josep Pla considered it "the cathedral of the Empordà," the most important temple after Girona. But you shouldn't miss the irrigation and vegetable garden area just behind it, next to the Ecomuseum-Farinera, and which She has fallen in love with the musician, composer and conductor Marc Timón, who lives between his birthplace and Los Angeles, where he says he has a "strange feeling of Empordà."

The return to the wetlands

Today we'll be on very little asphalt. Between fields and irrigation ditches, we circle the Aiguamolls del Empordà Natural Park until we reach Sant Pere Pescador. It's perhaps one of the towns whose historic center has been least affected by tourism. In August and September, bicycles flood the streets. This is for a very different reason than cycle tourism: they are the means of transportation for hundreds of seasonal workers who settle there. to harvest apples.

There's very little left to touch the Mediterranean. After crossing the Fluvià and skirting it, we arrive at Armentera. Before reaching the ruins of Sant Martí de Empúries and setting foot on the beach, we pass through Cinc Claus, a small village in the middle of fields that was of special appreciation to Caterina Albert, the best-selling writer from L'Escala known by the pseudonym Víctor Català.

When you see, smell, and touch the sea, you think that just a day ago you were at an altitude of over 1,500 meters, overlooking the snow-capped Canigó and an icy ice cap. We'll continue along the coast, but without entering L'Escala, and we'll reach the foothills of Montgrí through picture-postcard villages. In Bellcaire, the Rustik cafeteria reminds us that we are now in the land of devotion of the cycling tourists. And Ullà opens its doors to us in the Baix Empordà. We spend the night at the Molí del Mig, a restored 16th-century mill next to the Ter. We are in Torroella de Montgrí, which with its incredible cultural effervescence is The Empordà town with record ticket sales for events and museums.

Stage 5

Beach day to celebrate the end of the route

Despite completing the route in five days, I have to admit that there's still plenty of time for recreation once you're done pedaling. If you're sightseeing while you're on the move, time flies. There are so many points of interest. We'll finish this Pirinexus route by finding the final stretch of the Carrilet in Sant Feliu de Guíxols to return to Girona. But along the way, we'll take advantage of the railways, which were also open during the peak of cork production, when this natural insulator He built a new civilization in the Empordà more than a century ago.

We cross the Ter before it reaches the Garganta next to Estartit, and the selection of bucolic villages begins. Gualta, Fontanilles, Fontclara—next to Palau Sator—and Sant Feliu de Boada. The scent of jasmine fills the streets. We gasp in front of the facade of a house completely covered in flowers. It's Can Cisterna, where Pilar Ribot lives, proudly showing off how the plant has grown so proudly in just over a decade.

Palafrugell is very close, and we'll have to detour off the route again to reach the Can Mario factory complex, with the Cork Museum, the Vila-Casas Foundation, and the unmistakable old water tower, from where all the Gavarres mountains can be seen. Today's route, in fact, is simply a loop around this mountain range. If we decide to continue to the right, near the Pirinexus route, we find the Gran Fondo Community. This is a large complex geared toward both amateur and professional cyclists, combining a gym with a shop, a workshop, and even a café.

Seaside promenades without a bike lane

Once past Palafrugell, we'll soon be in Palamós. But despite being back on the seafront, you'll have to leave the route to find it, or at times, get off your bike. Palamós is currently renovating the promenade to allow bicycles to be used in the future. There is a designated space in Sant Antoni, but they are completely prohibited in Platja d'Aro, where you must get off and walk. In fact, the planned renovation of the entire promenade maintains its intention to maintain this ban in the future.

The Pirinexus route is designed to reach Sant Feliu de Guíxols, but we'll excuse the shortcut to Castell d'Aro and Santa Cristina, good places to stop and rest. Just before the Alou climb to Llagostera, we find the Carrilet del Paraje de Bell Lloc station. A meeting place when the train was running. Once at the top, Llagostera greets us before Cassà de la Selva. with the vindication of its taper past and the tireless task for the memory of the Gavarres publishing houseLlambillas and Cuarto. Here we'll make one last stop, five kilometers from Girona, at Ceràmiques Marcó. Jaume Marcó and Pilar Alsina are heirs to what they claim is "the oldest artisan workshop in the Mediterranean," with over 500 years of history. They proudly display Rafael Masó's molds and sketches, from when the workshop became a meeting place for the most renowned Noucentista artists. Today they combine history with avant-garde, creating dishes that will be used in Michelin-starred restaurants in the US.

It's the culmination of a spectacular journey back home. The stone bridge and the colorful houses of the Onyar River welcome us after 350 kilometers, a return to a great diversity of landscapes, culture, cuisine, and history.