The 5 trends we saw in 080 (and that we'll see on the street)

The looks White, black, and colors that combine these two have been among the most popular trends at the 080. Gau, the brand by Uruguayan designer Sergio Gau; Natalie Chandler, a Belgian designer based in Barcelona; designers Zoe Oms and Carlota Barrera; and the brands Acceptance Letter and Doblas have all opted for black and white in their collections. These basic colors, synonymous with elegance and sobriety, have been seen on the catwalk in unstructured suits, sheer garments, with fabrics like leather, and garments with oversize and others that highlight the silhouettes.

Festive, spectacular outfits for grand celebrations are making a strong comeback in women's collections that celebrate empowered women through unique garments that stand out and never go unnoticed. We've seen this in the new collection by Lola Casademunt by Maite, a brand specializing in dressing women who don't want to be discreet, and also with the garments by Seville-based designer Inma Linares, who dresses celebrities such as Cristina Pedroche and Blanca Suárez, with haute couture-inspired proposals to dress the stars of any party.

Another trend we'll see next season is sheer fabrics. Fabrics that reveal the silhouette are ideal for the spring-summer season, and we've seen them on the runway, especially in light shirts and flowing dresses, as suggested by brands like Simorra and Doblas, or designers Carlota Barrera and Nathalie Chandler, who also play with bright colors and prints. These styles are perfect for everyday wear, but combined with more formal garments, they're also perfect for festive occasions.

Fashion has always played a fundamental role in cultural and social movements, from the rebellious punk subculture of the 1960s to collections inspired by the Black Lives Matter movement. Designers often aligned causes such as racial justice, feminism, and environmental protection with powerful messages on the runway. This year's 080 featured numerous shows that focused on sustainability, such as the 080 Reborn show, created entirely from reclaimed clothing. There were also shows championing sexual and gender dissidence, such as those by Aleixandri Studio and Dominnico.or self-named designs preppy-punk by Outsiders Division, which links subculture and pop through the free use of color and imagination.

On the Catalan runway, brands such as Dominnico, Benavente, Doblas, Aleixandri Studio, Carlota Barrera, and Acromatyx presented collections that blur the boundaries between masculine and feminine with all kinds of pieces that break stereotypes. This trend focuses on versatile, neutral designs that adapt to any body type, breaking with the social norms that link specific pieces to genders. Little by little, genderless fashion is ceasing to be a transgressive trend and becoming a consolidated movement in both the industry and popular culture.

080 bids farewell to Sant Pau with a celebratory finale featuring 080 Reborn and Custo Barcelona.

More than a decade after the modernist Sant Pau venue first hosted the 080, this Friday saw the final shows, bringing the 36th edition of the Barcelona catwalk show to a close, the last to be held in the iconic space designed by Domènech i Montaner. "It's too small. For us, it's important that the maximum audience can come. Being from the city, people get very involved, and now the potential of the event was underestimated," said Custo Dalmau, one of this Friday's headliners.

The Catalan catwalk show chose this location in the summer of 2014 and returned in 2017 to coincide with its 20th edition. According to sources from the organization, the next spring edition will be held in a space that has already been decided, but the agreement has not yet been made official. "I don't have any preference for the new location; any place with capacity is fine," added the Barcelona-based designer.

This year's edition drew 11,000 visitors, with the participation of nearly 1,000 accredited professionals, including journalists and content creators.

This week's queues in the gardens of the Art Nouveau complex to get a spot at the shows have highlighted the space constraints and the growing interest in the Catalan catwalk, especially among young people, many of them design students. This Friday, from early morning, the public was already waiting to enter the Acceptance Letter show, the first of the day. The brand by Korean designer Jea Kyong debuted on the Catalan catwalk with a collection of long-lasting pieces made from recycled and organic materials.

A unique parade

At half past twelve, it was the turn of one of the most unique and innovative shows of the week, the fourth edition of 080 Reborn, a show inspired by the stylistic vision of Fermin + Gilles—formed by stylists Fermin Serret and Gilles Saint Martin—with clothing sourced from various secondhand shops and textile waste sorting plants. "Ninety-five percent of the pieces in the show come from the city of Barcelona and its surrounding areas. From training and employment stores, Humana Solidança, the Encants, and stores in Raval, Portaferrissa, El Born, and Gràcia. You have to travel a lot, because they're constantly releasing new pieces," explained Serret.

The result was a collection with a first part inspired by literature that fuses Victorian Gothic with modern rebellion, and a second focused on the sixties, reinterpreting high society with a sustainable and conscious perspective. One of the surprises was seeing actor Carles Francino as the model, in charge of closing the show. "With this fourth edition, we have consolidated this unique initiative. There is no other fashion week on the international calendar in which they believe themselves to be authentic." looks catwalk made from unique pieces rescued and reused," Serret said.

According to Pilar Chiva, director of the Circular Economy Area of the Catalan Waste Agency, projects like this one help transform society's view of fabric reuse: "A few years ago, secondhand was for a certain type of person, and we're seeing that it's increasingly an attractive option for all types of profiles."

According to data from the Agency, each Catalan generates around 10 to 22 kilos of textile waste per year, and only 13% of it is collected selectively. "We should put all textiles in the clothing bin, even those that are ripped or stained. And as consumers, we should reflect on our consumption model. We should think about what we buy, how, and to whom, and look for clothes that can last longer," Chiva advised.

The last show of the morning was by Juan VG, the label behind Juan Valentin-Gamazo. The young designer's creative path was born from the need to feel unrepresented by the clothes he encountered during his adolescence, and at fifteen, he began transforming his own and his father's clothes. At 080, he presented Fuss, a stylistic journey through the routine of what he calls a "cayetano", an iconic figure of aesthetics prick that the designer has observed since he was a child on the streets of Valladolid.

The embers of home

The afternoon began with Eiko Ai, the firm founded by Catalan designer Gloria Lladó in 2016, which fuses the refinement of Japanese craftsmanship with contemporary creativity. She presented Echoes of light, a collection of white and nude Made with natural cottons and washed silks.

Both Lladó and Custo Dalmau, the next to walk the runway, were playing at home, and this was evident in the warmth of the audience and the queues at the modernist venue. "To walk the runway at 080 is to do so at home. There's a very emotional aspect to showing your work to the people who are close to you," Custo assured before walking the runway. The international firm presented its most recent collection, Leave her Alone, a tribute to freedom, emotion and self-expression formed by fluid silhouette suits and his iconic graphic tees that made him famous in the late nineties.

The day concluded with shows by Habey Club and Acromatyx. David Salvador and Javier Zunzunegui's brand presented Enough, a collection that speaks of emotional and spiritual awakening, through a range of browns and greens in which volumes take center stage.

Acromatyx has concluded this 080 edition with the influence of contemporary art, architecture, and the work of sculptor Aldo Chaparro as a backdrop. A proposal inspired by the symbolism of the number eight as a representation of abundance, balance, and transformation.