Custo: "I make clothes for people who understand that fashion is emotion."

BarcelonaThe combination of young designers and veteran creators is one of the hallmarks of 080 Barcelona Fashion, which has been committed to this combination for years and which was embodied this Wednesday in the various shows seen at the Sant Pau Art Nouveau Site.

The young designer Guillermo Justicia opened the second day with a collection born from all the emotions produced by his debut—right here at 080 just a year ago—when he was received with applause and enthusiasm from the public. That success was a double-edged sword: joy, of course, but also a lot of pressure. Justicia decided to imagine these feelings and give them form through the garments that now make up his collection. Void.

Justice is a conceptual proposal that explores loneliness and emptiness, inspired by a desolate and inhospitable world where we find a wide variety of garments, exaggerated volumes and different types of fabrics, and where the use of unusual materials such as curtain fabrics or upholstery is striking. "Beyond designing clothes, I want to create emotional and visual experiences that allow people to immerse themselves in the narrative that defines each collection," said the designer.

Santi Mozas is also a young designer who, through the brand Compte Spain, is committed to craftsmanship, sustainability, and zero-mile tailoring. This morning he presented the collection. Found object, which includes a series of feminine proposals that reinterpret some of the classic elements of the stories to pass them through the brand's sieve—sequins, feathers, transparencies and lots of shine—to dress a sophisticated and unashamed woman.

The third young designer of the day was Anaïs Vauxcelles, the soul of 404 Studio, a designer who has dressed celebrities such as Dua Lipa, Kylie Minogue, and Julia Fox, drawn to artisanal techniques—especially crochet—, recycled materials, and the production of unique pieces. Vauxcelles presented the collection Hack the system which, as always, draws on the love and passion for cinema; in this case it is a tribute to the film Hackers (1996) allows her to draw a parallel between the film's hackers fighting the system and her own struggle as an artisanal designer in a sector dominated by large corporations. The sensuality-drenched garments are designed using primarily black and ecru colors and handmade knits. All of this is done with repurposed yarns from previous collections to emphasize her commitment to being a sustainable brand.

In the afternoon, it was the turn of two experienced designers who have been loyal to the 080 for years. First, Custo, who presented the spring/summer collection. Light years, a statement of intent full of shine and luminosity. The designer from Tremp explains that the common thread is emotion: "I make clothes for people who understand that fashion is an emotion," he said before the show.

Custo also maintains its usual commitment to intense colors and technological fabrics; and as new features, the large number of looks men's (up to twenty) and the revival of the legendary graphic t-shirts that made her famous in the late nineties. There was also room for protests in her show: two activists slipped a banner into the finale denouncing the fact that the Hospital de Sant Pau does not allow abortions.

The other veteran of the day, Txell Miras, returned to the catwalk after a hiatus. "I've had interesting side projects that have kept me very busy, like designing the Copa América uniforms, and now I'm back with enthusiasm," said the designer, who, however, is considering stopping creating two collections a year and making just one. "I have a certain desire to slow down. And since I'm not as tied to the market as some brands are, I can afford it," she explained. In the new collection, Relaxing racks, Miras wanted to play with opposing concepts through the garments: rigid fabrics with elastic, antique and artisan garments with neoprene fabrics, exaggerated volumes and structures and zippers that undo the garments, and a color palette that ranges from warm tones to the most blacks and blues.

Finally, the day was capped by the Madrid designer Ernesto Naranjo, who made his debut at 080. The young designer has on his resume the experience of having worked at Maison Margiela under the direction of John Galliano and at Balmain with Olivier Rousteing. His new collection is inspired by the Ziegfeld Girls, the ballerinas and showgirls who performed in Broadway shows at the beginning of the 20th century. In homage to that style, Naranjo has filled the garments with shiny effects and played with volumes and fabrics.