Collboni: "We want 080 to be on equal footing with the world's biggest catwalks."

BarcelonaChanges to the Catalan catwalk. The mayor of Barcelona, ​​Jaume Collboni, and the regional minister for Business and Employment, Miquel Sàmper, announced this afternoon the city council's entry for the first time into 080 Barcelona Fashion, the fashion event promoted and funded by the Generalitat (Catalan government) for the past 35 editions. "The idea is to expand 080. To make it stand out from the world's great catwalks," Collboni stated about the collaboration, which will begin this year.

At a press conference at the Sant Pau Art Nouveau Complex, where the shows were held, Collboni explained that the Catalan capital's City Council will contribute part of the funding for the runway, although he declined to specify the figure. Currently, 080 has a budget of €2 million per edition, which comes from the accounts of the Generalitat (Catalan government), in addition to contributions from sponsors.

The collaboration strengthens relations between both administrations in relation to the world of fashion, something that already existed at the now-defunct Gaudí catwalk, but not at the 080, which until now was led by the Generalitat (Catalan government). "I believe the participation of the city of Barcelona was essential, with all its experience, with all its international reach, due to the great talent we have in our design schools, our local creators, our facilities, and our cultural and design facilities that we can put at the service of 080," added the mayor of the Catalan capital. The incorporation of the City Council will also be an opportunity to discuss and find a new location to hold the Catalan catwalk. Its organizers have already announced that there will be changes in this regard, as it has grown significantly and requires a larger space than the Sant Pau Art Nouveau Site.

Familiar faces

In fact, the queues of guests and journalists waiting to enter the shows on the third day of the 080—the longest of this year's edition—demonstrated the lack of space throughout the day.

Designer Dominnico closed the day with Lucky Fall, a collection with a name that already gave clues as to how lucky the attendees of a packed show felt. And it wasn't just familiar faces that were seen at the front row, but also on the runway. Artist Samantha Hudson and famous Lebanese-born former porn actress Mia Khalifa have worn American-influenced designs created with materials such as recycled leather and denim, which have become part of the brand's identity.

The spotlight on this third day of fashion shows has also fallen on Barcelona native María Escoté, well known to the general public for serving as a television judge on the TVE program Masters of sewingAfter several seasons immersed and focused on the company's sales and production, Escoté has made a strong entrance on the runway with a new Superman-inspired collection featuring a color palette that reinforces the brand's identity. "I believe that when a person creates creative work, it should be 100% their identity. And in my case, color, volume, and extreme pieces are what identify me," she stated backstage.

This is the first time Escoté—based in Madrid—has participated in 080, and she has done so by combining a mature approach to graphics and printing, playing with volumes to achieve 3D effects. "I'm very happy to be in Barcelona and to be showing here. I've learned a lot in these five years, but now I needed to return to craftsmanship, with garments as special and organic as those in this collection."

Madrid Delegation

Never before have so many Madrid-based designers chosen to present their collections on the Catalan catwalk. This is the case of Juan Vidal, who, after walking on national and international runways with his eponymous label, made his Barcelona debut this Thursday with He loves me, he loves me notPistiles and petals, washed silk satin and gabardine have been the starting point for Vidal's proposal.

The other Madrid native of the day was Carlos Doblas, who was in charge of closing the morning of shows. In 2010, he launched his eponymous brand, which has evolved into Doblas, a renewed project that returns to the catwalk with Re-Debut, a collection that combines sobriety and elements of classic tailoring—such as pinstripes and checked checks—with flowing white dresses and tops in neutral tones inspired by the characters of Commedia dell'Arte.

Veteran status and expected debuts

This Thursday also featured Eñaut, which presented its eleventh collection on the Catalan catwalk: Ecdysis"It's about acceptance and the fear of growing older. About the conflict with our bodies, how we accept them, and the established beauty standards. That struggle between self-acceptance and the physical abuse a person can endure to remain young," explained Eñaut Barruetabeña, who has the same experience.

In the first shows of the day, the commitment to capturing the spirit of centenarians was consolidated by AAA Studio, making its debut on the Catalan catwalk. With a proposal without gender or size labels, Arnau Climent's brand has demonstrated that fashion can be inclusive with BURdeNOUT, designed for the fall and winter season. "It represents the feeling shared by Generation Z when facing adulthood. We feel burned out from not knowing how to handle it and we have the feeling that everything is too big for us," stated this young man from Montcada i Reixac in his presentation letter to 080. At twenty-three, he is very clear that he wants to create under the ideals of the idea.

Alvar Merino, the second to walk the runway, also challenged traditional codes and gender conventions. His designs bucked traditional norms with durable materials, metallic fittings, and structured cuts.