A hearty breakfast with views of Pasteral: a bike route through the inland jungle

There are many excuses to go out cycling. And I'm sure there are quite a few of you who, when thinking about where you want to go, look for a good place to stop and recharge before heading back. This week's route is inspired by last week's: we once again take shelter by the Ter River and head upstream from Girona, but this time we extend the route, passing over the old bridge of Sant Julià de Llor to Pasteral, at the edge of the Inland Forest, next to Amer. There, two delicious breakfast options await us: the bar La Parada, with a terrace overlooking the dam, and the long-standing restaurant Can Quer, where they still grill meat in the same room where they serve the daily menu.

Getting there is easy from Girona, and along the way we'll come across one of the lesser-known gems of La Selva: the old bridge of Sant Julià de Llor, one of the finest examples of late Catalan civil Gothic architecture. It was destroyed by a flood on the Ter River in the 18th century but is now perfectly preserved. However, it's a historical heritage site that serves no purpose beyond creating a bucolic setting: it leads nowhere, and no water passes underneath it. The flood that broke it diverted the course of the Ter River to the area, and the structure was no longer in use.

While on the previous quick and easy route to Vilanna following the beaches of the Ter I suggested first taking the little track through the orchards of Santa Eugenia and Salt and Bescanó. In this case, we'll go out along the flat area of Domeny and Sant Gregori towards Bonmatí. The route always looks different depending on whether you're going there or coming back. Can't find it?

In this case, once the track ends next to the Ter, we'll continue along the road towards Constantins, a pretty little village in the shade of fertile pastures and orchards; there's the bridge. You have to continue along the road and avoid turning off towards the new bridge that crosses the Ter towards El Inglés to reach the picturesque 17th and 18th century neighbourhood that is still preserved at the gates of the bridge.

Walking through the Brugent: the only tricky part

But first, we'll cross another river on foot: the Brugent, just before the confluence it forms before emptying into the Ter. This is the most difficult part of the route, although it can be easily crossed in summer, when there's little rain. Leaving the old bridge of Sant Julià de Llor, the path climbs past some old farmhouses until you come to a farm under construction. Then it's time to go down to the left along a path that can be quite grassy in summer. Some clean vines next to a pasture will tell you that you're on the right path, and you'll have to take the path on the right until you cross the Brugent. To cross it, we put our bikes on our shoulders and hop from stone to stone to the other side of the riverbed.

In no time, we'll be at Pasteral, ready for a bite to eat. Very close by is the cave with one of the oldest prehistoric sites in Catalonia, where Neolithic objects and skeletons have been discovered.

The return route is easy to follow, following the entire greenway. It's a pleasure to spend market days in Cellera de Ter or Inglés, when you see so many locals using the greenway as if it were a boulevard. Once you reach Inglés, due to the new bypass, you have to take some curves along a new bike lane that pays little attention to bicycle mobility. Be careful with the giant wooden gates they've put in place to prevent cars from entering!

The path ends in Bescanó in the Pilastra area, where, if you have time, it's also great to take a nice rest (don't be surprised if you find people bathing in the Ter, despite it being prohibited), and returns through the orchards of Salt and Santa Eugenia to Girona.

A route suitable for any day of the year. If it's been raining heavily, avoid the Brugent pass near the Pasteral and follow the path to Amer. It has a pretty entrance through the orchards and is a good excuse to discover the town's heritage, dating back thousands of years: the monastery founded by the Benedictines in the 9th century. You can also try one of the specialties of the Pastelería Puigdemont: the Caprichos de Amer.

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