Where were John Paul II's espadrilles from?

Do you know what comfortable footwear Pope John Paul II, Karol Wojtyla, chose for his nearly 27-year papacy? He was at the Vatican with his most illustrious client. Alongside, photographs of Jack Nicholson, Paco Rabal, Alfredo Kraus, Robert Englund, Michael Douglas, and a good list of celebrities who have worn Barcelona's most popular and best-selling espadrilles, along with their customs.

Asilde Sánchez, the current owner of the business, explains everything to me, also giving us a crash course on the materials and manufacturing of such a traditional shoe. She also shares her husband, Juan Carlos Tàsies, who passed away two years ago. La Manual Alpargatera has a very curious real estate development. The business occupies the ground floor of two different buildings. She was the founders' right-hand woman. In fact, she was the one who made the first sale of espadrilles, at the local coal miner. For a long time they were the kings of the espadrille, but recently competition has grown around them.

For many years, the workshop was located in the same premises. Today, although they still have an area for touch-ups and repairs, the actual workshop is located in Horta. They can offer all types of models and colors, heights and shapes, and even custom special orders. And espadrilles for brides! The vast majority of the shops that also operate in this sector use shoes from abroad, such as La Rioja, which has a long espadrille tradition, and also from China and Bangladesh. A very high percentage of the store's stock is made in-house—approximately 90%. They also have some interesting details, such as the Ibizan shoes made by a local artisan; they only have 50 pairs for the entire season, and, of course, they run out quickly.

Handcrafted

In the past, La Manual Alpargatera also sold other brands, but there was a problem: "You can't 100% control their quality," explains Asilde. She also explains that they make about 2,500 pairs of espadrilles a month, and that this allows them to have a good stock when the busy season arrives, which begins just after Sant Jordi and lasts throughout the summer. "If it's not hot, we don't sell espadrilles!" But what's the essential secret of this footwear? Above all, comfort. To achieve this, the raw material is very important. Today it's jute, a plant material that comes from India, China, and Bangladesh. Initially, they were made from esparto grass, but it was too rigid, uncomfortable, and not very breathable. Later, they were made from hemp, which was softer and smoother but too laborious to handle and produce. Asilde's masterclass is fascinating.

What's your best-selling model? Without a doubt the spiked espadrille. It's the seven-veined, traditional one, the one that Dalí wore. Why is it called a pincho? Well, because of the "he goes like a thug," meaning well-dressed, well-groomed. And the clientele? A lot of old-timers, not so much from the neighborhood—for obvious reasons of the accelerated loss of residents—but rather Barcelonans who change their footwear every year; and also, as we've already mentioned, tourists. Especially the Japanese: "They're in love with our espadrilles." Just take a quick look at Instagram.