Long live fresh pasta!

Since 1904. The ItalianThe door has been open to Carrer del Bonsuccés since 1904. Impressive, isn't it? And even more impressive is what Carla Rivali, the owner and fourth generation of this family-run fresh pasta business, tells us. Almost 100% of its numerous customers are locals, that is, Barcelona residents. In the middle of the tourist hotspot, north of Raval and next to La Rambla. But there are no neighbors here, right? In its immediate area of influence, there are still some, and those who are mostly Barcelona residents who work in the neighborhood come to La Italiana to buy lunch and choose from the variety of options on its daily menu.

To this type of clientele, we must of course add those who remain loyal to buying the vast array of types of fresh pasta they have. Eight cuts of long pasta that are multiplied by the variety of flavors: egg, mushroom, cuttlefish, tomato, spinach... Around 30 varieties of stuffed pasta. Meat, vegetables, mushrooms, pear and pumpkin... And the seasonal offerings. Now, for example, it's time for chestnut with mushrooms, truffle, and botifarra with mushrooms. In spring, zucchini with pesto, provola with onion, and burrata with pistachios. And at Christmas? Foie gras and duck are a must.

Carla works side by side with her husband, Gerard Vilà, who runs the backroom bakery. She's proud to explain that La Italiana was a pioneer, the first fresh pasta bakery in Barcelona: "The city welcomed the idea with open arms; it was very receptive to this novelty." The Italian-Catalan connection has always been a hallmark of the house. They only stock Italian and Catalan wines, for example. "A fusion that has brought us a lot of joy." To understand this, we must go back to the beginning, when Carla's great-grandparents, Attilio Rivali and Justina Montalvo, from Piedmont, passed through Barcelona at the beginning of the 20th century as a stepping stone to the Americas. But she was pregnant, and they liked the city's climate and atmosphere, so they stayed.

First, they opened a kiosk selling fresh pasta on La Rambla in 1902, and soon after, they opened Bonsuccés. The Civil War, as in so many other instances, was a shock. They had to send the war to Italy, and when they returned, the shop had been devastated, and they had to start all over again. The manager was Giuseppe Rivali, who took over the business with his wife. They are Carla's grandparents, who frequented the shop from a very young age. At 15, she was already lending a hand. And she has been working permanently since 22. Her mother, Gloria, has been a decisive presence and influence. And today, her children, Pablo and Julia, are well on their way to getting involved. In fact, they are finalizing the online sales project, which, if all goes well, will soon begin. Home delivery is a significant business booster today and an added value that people take seriously. "Getting to the city center is getting harder every day than the day before," says Carla, with a barely concealed dose of criticism. Ironically, she takes a mental leap and transports herself to the new Rambla of 2027: "Everyone will come back!"

Local clientele

It's already clear that the majority of the clientele is local. What do tourists do? Well, they come in, look around, take photos, and tell them how beautiful the shop is. But little else. Carla is happy with a clientele she calls "generational." That is, one that has been passed down from generation to generation. First came the grandparents, then the parents, and now it's the grandchildren who buy fettuccine or tagliatelle. Or they choose from the fabulous Italian antipasti based on artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes, olives, cured meats, and cheeses: burrata, mozzarella, stracciatella, gourmet options like salmon and anchovies. The wide variety of breads. The essential taralli, flour-based appetizers shaped like coils. Important customers must be the Italians living in Barcelona, ​​right? Of course they are. There is a very large Italian community in the city. "They are very demanding and grateful, they are very happy with us."