The hearty breakfasts are all the rage in Catalonia. Traditional Catalan dishes and slow-cooked meals first thing in the morning, in a lifelong establishment, accompanied by bread and wine, are gaining more and more followers. They are often carnivorous meals, such as capipota, fricandó, braised pork cheek, or sausage with beans. However, some coastal bars and restaurants, specialized in working with the fresh fish of the day, also serve seafood-style hearty breakfasts. And the experience is truly worth it. Enjoying a good seafood platter by the sea after an early morning coffee is an unbeatable plan.

I interview the chef Lluís Fernández on a summer evening at his restaurant Els Pescadors, in Llançà. He radiates good nature and love for his work, which he does as a family, with one of his sisters, Maria Àngels, and his brother-in-law. Both of them in the dining room. The restaurant is full of tables that speak to Lluís with familiarity, as the loyal customers they must be. Whoever goes to Els Pescadors knows they will eat lobster from Cap de Creus, because the family has one of the most important nurseries in the country, but it is not just about eating lobster for the sake of it. Lluís cooks territory, serves culture, and since these are his mottos, this year he has printed them on a tote bag. And the lobsters are numbered. Those who eat one take home a card, with a drawing by his chef friend Paco Pérez, with the numbering and a note from the restaurant.