I interview the chef Lluís Fernández on a summer evening at his restaurant Els Pescadors, in Llançà. He radiates good nature and love for his work, which he does with his family, with one of his sisters, Maria Àngels, and his brother-in-law. Both of them in the dining room. The restaurant is full of tables that speak to Lluís with confidence, as loyal customers must be. Whoever goes to Els Pescadors knows they will eat lobster from Cap de Creus, because the family has one of the most important lobster pens in the country, but it is not about eating lobster just for the sake of it. Lluís cooks territory, serves culture, and since these are his mottos, this year he has printed them on a handbag. And the lobsters are numbered. Those who eat one take home a card, with a drawing by his chef friend Paco Pérez, with the numbering and a note from the restaurant.