It's urgent that we develop the desire to be taught how to go to the fishmonger's, the meat stall, the fruit and vegetable stand, to "choose and browse." We don't know how, and we don't know how because of the supermarkets, which offer us lettuce, peeled and cut carrots, farmed salmon, minced meat and potatoes in the form of hamburgers on shrink-wrapped polystyrene trays. We buy quickly, too quickly. We throw things away without guilt, too often. We live wrapped in shrink wrap. Without plastic on top, no food excites us.

The traditional Christmas markets that spring up in many cities across central and northern Europe are increasingly becoming a major draw for travel during this time of year. This year, the renowned travel guide Lonely Planet sought to discover its readers' favorite Christmas market in Spain, conducting a survey of 44,000 travelers to determine which they considered the best. The winner was Colmar, in France, very close to the German border, which beat out 32 other Christmas markets, including those in Edinburgh, Salzburg, Ravennaschlucht, Prague, Budapest, and Copenhagen. The French city is known for its old town with cobbled streets and a network of canals that has earned it the nickname "Little Venice.". Here at Christmas, six different markets are set up, spread throughout the alleyways and squares. There's a children's market, designed for the little ones, with a carousel. and a lively nativity scene; and one dedicated to antiques and crafts called Old Customs House. Colmar also boasts about its Christmas pastries with products such as gingerbread and cookies. bredele with spices and the springerle with anise aroma, or the Beeraweckaa fruit tart with kirsch.