Three-quarters of an hour from Manchester, on a train journey through rolling pastures and picture-postcard villages, lies Burnley, the smallest municipality in the Premier League. With fewer than 80,000 inhabitants and no specialty coffee shops, it often goes unnoticed by tourists visiting northwest England. In fact, it doesn't even have city status because it lacks a cathedral: it's a townWhat it does have are pubs. The most famous of all is The Royal Dyche, halfway between the station and the football ground. On match days it's packed.