Since January, the Israeli army has occupied Jenin, having expelled its 20,000 Palestinian residents. What remains is no longer a bustling refugee camp — there are no children playing in the streets, no scent of freshly baked bread, no clatter of motorbike repair shops, no shouts from fruit sellers. The shabab — adolescents who once carried rifles and planted homemade explosives at night to fend off Israeli incursions — are gone. The camp has been converted into a military base where troops prepare for the kind of fighting experienced in Gaza.