It's urgent that we develop the desire to be taught how to go to the fishmonger's, the meat stall, the fruit and vegetable stand, to "choose and browse." We don't know how, and we don't know how because of the supermarkets, which offer us lettuce, peeled and cut carrots, farmed salmon, minced meat and potatoes in the form of hamburgers on shrink-wrapped polystyrene trays. We buy quickly, too quickly. We throw things away without guilt, too often. We live wrapped in shrink wrap. Without plastic on top, no food excites us.

I fully agree with the words of the director general of Incavi, reported by colleague Jordi Bes, speaking of the fact that wine consumption is stagnating. Wine needs "less solemnity and more shared emotion," says Joan Gené. And he also says that Catalan wine is at its peak, but that "one in five consumers doesn't know where the wine they're drinking comes from, and in the case of young people, it's one in four." He attributes, of course, this decline "to the growing pronouncements and policies promoted by governments and organizations, such as the WHO," which consider that "there is no alcohol consumption with zero risk to health."