"The stranger passes by and the people sitting in the café look and smile maliciously," wrote Giorgio Bassani about the streets of his hometown, Ferrara. In Italy, people-watching is still a national sport, despite the distraction of screens. In Italy, you should always try to find a good, century-old café, one with professional waiters who love their work and who prepare the drink the Italian way. No giant tubs of coffee in the Americano, no. You order a cappuccino. or one latte in the morning. And then, a solo coffee. And you play at trying to be Italian, looking at the strangers passing by.