At five in the morning, the sun is already bathing the camper van where Silvia, Javi, and Astrid are sleeping. In front of them, misty forests and coffee plantations in El Salvador shake off the night, and seven-year-old Astrid has already opened her eyes. She knows that today she will visit a volcano. She gets up alone—as she does almost every day since she began an itinerant life—and, without rushing, gets dressed, makes her bed, and washes her face. She looks for binoculars, prepares her water bottle, and adjusts the straps on her backpack. Then she goes out to check if the other family they will be climbing the trail with is ready.