There's life beyond Mickey Mouse and the Disney universe. And not just life: there are smoking volcanoes, trains that cross mountains, beaches where time stands still, fairytale castles that don't appear in fairy tales, and even museums where you shouldn't whisper. In Europe, family adventures aren't limited to lines or princess and superhero costumes. Some make you laugh, others make you think, and still others, from time to time, smell of salt water, hot chocolate, or a wet forest.