It's Friday, the weather is good, the train to Girona has gone reasonably well despite the delay, and when I arrive at the Fontané restaurant, located on the first floor of theEsperit Roca Hotel, in the Sant Julià castleI find myself in a brightly lit room, tables with white tablecloths, waiters and waitresses dressed in black trousers and jackets, and diners who have filled every table. There are entire families, couples, and colleagues, and I sit next to the large window that projects the green of Sants Metges Mountains onto the table.