That in our big cities a normal salad has become a chimera is abnormal. Celery, peeled if necessary, radish, perhaps cut into a flower shape, tomato, with gusto, of course, and "peasant" lettuce. Today, if they gave me radish and celery in a restaurant, I'd burst into tears. Or, at most, it's a handful of sprouts. Restaurants, too. Without overwhelming them. Salad is refreshing and allows you to eat more fat. One who wants to diet. No part of our diet has been as savagely perverted as that of vegetables. Frozen, inside. When it was time to set the table, the child or teenager carrying the salad would be told: "Carry it singing!" bland, plastic-wrapped spinach, a canned carrot?