"Tremp is the largest municipality in Catalonia," Xavier Boixadós, a guide for this town, assures me, so as soon as we see each other, he says almost before telling me: "Did you manage to park easily?" I am taken aback. I thought I had ventured into the most depopulated, emptiest Catalonia. He immediately explains it to me: "Larger in surface area, not in number of people. It has 300 square kilometers, more than Barcelona." Tremp has been adding abandoned or semi-abandoned villages, and that's why it has been growing. Many of these villages are built on high ground – defense was the number one element for settling there.

One day, Tremp was on the verge of disappearing. Right in the holm oak wood. The trempolines and Cuenca residents (Llimiana, Guardia, Salàs...) watched as everything faded away, taking flight, and without a plane. Legs help me. It happened when it all happened.