In 1991, Lluís Vives i Solé's grandfather was recognized by President Pujol "for his leading role in technological advancements in the vineyard sector." Today, the Catalan government no longer awards this distinction to those who work the land and protect the landscape. His son, Enric Vives, and his wife, Aïda Conesa, are oenologists, having graduated from the Rovira i Virgili University. Thirty years ago, they decided to establish Cavas Vives Ambròs in Montferri. Together, they maintain the legacy of a farming family with over 500 years of history in the Alt Camp region, and now the sixth generation has joined them. David Vives has set aside his computer career to cultivate vineyards. It's common to see him working on a 1979 John Deere tractor, but also skillfully communicating on Instagram. The cellars are celebrating their thirtieth anniversary, and it seems that, nestled near the church and just a few meters from the modernist Sanctuary of Montserrat, they are navigating the crisis looming over the wine industry. They will expand the facilities to store the increasingly longer aging processes for their Cava, as well as the shop to offer better wine tourism services. "At Vives Ambròs, 99% is vineyards, and we sell 90% of our production in the shop," explains Enric Vives. They are a rare elderlyThey don't have distributors. "Word of mouth and the quality-price-pleasure ratio of our wines and cavas work for us," he adds. Specialized critics and international competitions have also been kind to them; 71 gold medals and 40 silver medals.

"When you grow up going tomato picking with your grandfather, you also develop certain values ​​and a culinary identity." Martí Mestre Domènech is a young chef trained at the Università di Scienze Gastronomiche di Pollenzo in Italy, who has been fortunate enough to have his culinary training at home in the Priorat region. "The fact that my other grandfather and mother ran the Hotel Hostal Sport definitely sparked my curiosity for gastronomy." Today, he works alongside his colleague Andrea Picchione, whom he met at the university. slow foodThey act as nomadic chefs; they travel to the place, read about it, understand it, and then cook it in the most honest and sincere way, with "powerful minimalism," he clarifies. At university, he learned that "gastronomy is everything because we have evolved through food." And he adds: "Cooking is becoming aware of the world we live in; it's a process of food transformation that begins with a tuber."

"Climate change translates into more hours of sunshine and heat and less rain. If this trend persists and the scientific studies are accurate, one of the biggest turning points for Priorat could certainly be the rise of white wines. We will plant more adapted varieties. And, in this scenario, it seems that white wines are gaining increasing presence and appeal," he reflects. He believes they could represent between 30% and 40% of production in the next 20 years. "White varieties perform very well on slate soils. Planted at altitude, with a low pH, they produce wines with structure and minerality," comments winemaker Jordi Vidal of La Conreria de Scala Dei. Primera Vinya, 100% Garnacha Blanca, is a Vino de Vila that has achieved Vinya Clasificada status thanks to the exceptional qualities of its location, perched atop a hill. Almost twenty years ago, he paved the way for white wines with Les Brugueres. He is aware of all the challenges facing the sector, but he isn't intimidated: "We're on a downward slope globally, but the Priorat DOQ, as a world-renowned region, has a lifeline that keeps us afloat or slows our descent." Vidal believes the crisis can be overcome "if we continue creating expressive wines with a strong identity."

"Priorat is a great land, and its white wines have a personality as strong as its reds. It's difficult to predict, but perhaps the future will be white, and quite diverse, because there are very different styles and profiles, but they are all Priorat wines, with a minerality that makes them saline and long on the palate, and with great aging potential. When they are old, they are very special." These are the words of winemaker Joan Sangenís, from the Cal Pla winery, one of the historic wineries of the DOQ Priorat, with vineyards in Porrera. Sede is one of the region's most charismatic white wines, Mas d'en Compte, a blend of Garnacha Blanca, Picapoll Blanco, and Xarel·lo. Its oak aging is evident, but it is a classic that discerning sommeliers treasure. "White wines have the soul of reds; they are intense, unique, and very food-friendly. In Priorat, we have fine white wines, crafted slowly: we age them in stainless steel tanks, casks, amphorae... We bottle them after 10 months, and the wine just keeps getting better," comments winemaker Albert Jané, referring to Ritmo, 2016 and 2023, a single-varietal wine made from old and "beautiful" vines—as stated on the label—of Garnacha Blanca grown on slate. Over the years, the wine achieves an elegant, profound, and balanced maturity. "The Carignan Blanca brings a smile to the Rocafosca 2024, adding freshness to the blend with Garnacha Blanca," explains Gisela Mira, sales manager of Costers del Priorat, in El Molar. "We used to make it with chimney stones, but the Carignan Blanca makes the wine more vibrant. We anticipate a boom in Priorat now that the regulations support it," she affirms. "There are few old vineyards of white varieties, but many have been planted in recent years because we know the wine is very good and the catalog of permitted varieties is extensive," notes Meritxell Pallejà, a winemaker and viticulturist in Gratallops.

The Tarragona region is not only the country's breadbasket, but also, and especially, the most complex, diverse, and rich mosaic of vineyards in all of Catalonia, safeguarding our landscape and making it resilient. Perhaps that's why, from its inception, this supplement has been fueled by winemaking stories with deep roots and wings, reminding us monthly that wine is a delicious consequence of the human domestication of the vine and, intrinsically, the will to perpetuate a culture.

"Let's not forget that, whether we like it or not, we too are animals and need a healthy environment to live." These are the words of photographer Màrius Domingo, author of the poster for this year's Terrer Festival, which is now entering its final stretch. His images showcase some of the birds that inhabit the Priorat region. It's no coincidence that one of the tastings organized as part of Terrer, now that wine has become a permanent fixture, focuses on preserving the landscape and promoting biodiversity. Winemaker Ester Nin (Celler Nin Ortiz, Porrera) has set one condition for accepting the festival director Blai Rosés's proposal: that it take place at the Cartuja de Escaladei. "We've come to explain biodynamics to you in our home," she and Carles Ortiz say humbly. "And also to let you guess what we've served you," they add. Under each glass, a scratch-off card. Iconic biodynamic wines from different regions of the world will be served and tasted as their story unfolds. "Our vines have a living, extensive, and deep root system," they declare from the outset. The image of the leaf they give to attendees illustrates precisely that: root work that is later transferred to the wine. "It's difficult to perceive biodynamic viticulture in the glass, but it is said that these wines are more expressive, with fruit and floral notes," they explain. There is also harmony, as in the subtle crystallizations that allow them to capture the essence of the wine. "The estate should gladden our souls; it should create a living organism where native life flourishes. It should never be a monoculture," Carles Ortiz reminds us. That's why they coexist with almond and hazelnut trees, native vegetation, and dry-stone walls that bear witness to countless years of agricultural activity. "The waxing or waning moon is what gives us vitality." "Animal manure is the most honest way to maintain the soil without heavy machinery; the idea is always to revitalize the soil." They talk about Steiner, about the preparations, explaining that "a good compound allows for better resistance to disease; we go to the Pyrenees to find cow manure." They talk about restoring hillsides and self-esteem, about Flor de la Coma, the new wine that draws from the DNA of old vines.

The restaurant's first customers were the workers and laborers who made it possible to open it in just over three months; the premises had neither a roof nor windows. "We all shared a long table with them on Sant Esteve to celebrate the milestone," recalls chef Sergi Palacín, who heads the kitchen at Hiu Restaurant in Cambrils. The gesture speaks volumes about him and his willingness to welcome, shared with his sister Judit, a cook and now also a sommelier.

It's often said that a good wine list presupposes a very good culinary selection. At La Lleona Salada restaurant in Altafulla, this proves true. "The initial idea was to open a wine bar with cold cuisine, but we were really afraid because we didn't see the south as ready," says sommelier Helena Boronat, one of the four partners. After realizing it was risky to dedicate themselves solely to wine, they decided on the restaurant on a quiet street, marked by beautiful architecture and bougainvillea. They opened in May. "The idea is very clear. We have vibrant and energetic wines that don't leave you indifferent. We like wine to awaken things in those who drink it; that's what we strive for and what motivates us," she summarizes. With her brother Cesc, they also make wine at the Cerra els Ulls winery in Nulles. Clearly, the list breathes the spirit of their wines and is an increasingly diverse star of wines from worthy friends, such as our neighbors at Celler 9+ or Sicus. "We wanted a short, liquid list, but I feel more comfortable as I incorporate more wines, even though it can sometimes be difficult to introduce them. Customers almost always accept advice. They don't know many of the wines we suggest, because in Tarragona the public is rather classic. Therefore, we do an educational job that we regretfully don't do. It's visible," she explains. Most of the wines on the list are Catalan and from the Tarragona region, but there's no shortage of wines from small Italian and French producers. "We want short-production wines with people behind them," Boronat clarifies. He dares to say that "if the restaurant were a wine, it would be Cambuix by Mallorcan winemaker Cati Ribot: a red wine from the viper and the alley. This sums up the spirit of the menu: native varieties and a great deal of craftsmanship in its production."

"El palo de pajar represents the recovery of the Aiguamúrcia Cooperative and the sharing with families and winegrowers the joy of reopening this space we consider a treasure. Let's create a territory," says winemaker and viticulturist Pepe Raventós. Can Sumoi, the natural wine project he has been leading since 2017 in Alt Camp, will restore the heartbeat of wine four decades later to an emblematic building, the work of Cèsar Martinell, a disciple of Gaudí. If all goes as planned, the first harvest to arrive will be in 2026. Until then, the modernist architectural space will undergo a thorough renovation and be adapted to accommodate the winemaking machinery. The façade and exterior skin will be preserved.

Behind Quesería Linens lies the change of profession and life of three sisters with degrees in dietetics, environmental sciences, and temporary architecture. Elena Orós was the first to decide to change her career. "I wasn't comfortable. I left my job in Barcelona and applied to the School of Shepherds of Catalonia. There, you don't just do an internship, but you also observe many realities, and I clearly saw that I couldn't get ahead alone. I remember that some of my classmates found it difficult to take the step because their parents considered being a shepherd to be a step backward." This wasn't the case for them; their paternal grandmother had been a transhumant from Nou Barris (Barcelona) to La Rioja. Marina and Mercè quickly joined in. Eleven years later, the three sisters can boast of running a cheese factory in Bellmunt del Priorat with a herd of 30 Malaga goats, which will soon number 120. "They're hardy, they give a lot of milk and fat, and they're great for cheese," she concludes. They come from restaurateurs, wineries, and individuals, and through extensive livestock farming, they contribute to building resilience in the agroforestry mosaic they inhabit.

In the main square of Bellavista rests I will walk around like a fool, a sixteen-meter sphere created with old, chained vines, is the work of Catalan sculptor Cristina Gavilán, whose workshop is right across the street. "It's an expression the Italians use. In Catalan, it would mean "wandering," to wander aimlessly," she explains. "My idea was for the sculpture to travel through the territory to which it belongs, for the wind to carry it between vineyards, for the birds to come closer," but setting it free, in these times, is certainly a risk. The sculpture is a result of the final project she presented at the Escola Massana in Barcelona. "Pushing the sphere symbolizes the effort of the farmer, and its rounded shape speaks to the cycles of the vine and of life. Subtly, also to the death of my father," she reveals, always linking territory and identity.

"I don't want to be a wine restaurant or work here every day." It couldn't be more frank. Sommelier Quintín Quinsac and chef Ana Ruiz have been running the AQ restaurant in Tarragona for over twenty years. They've created comfort for the workers, but also an ecosystem that will soon allow them to spend more time traveling. It's a gastronomic temple where you drink the best you eat. Consistency. "The menu is a page long, but it holds up to a hundred items. We change it frequently. There are wines we like, from Tarragona, Galicia, and many Garnachas," Quinsac summarizes. On the day of the interview, he included unique wines from Mas Vicenç, Pallerades, and De Muller. Sherry is not missing. "We always have haunt", he warns. In fact, the character of southern wines is the link with the project he now has in hand: "Rancio wine had passed me by. It's a silent revolution. No one has paid attention to it." He is writing a book following the oral memory of a generation that has guarded it without boasting. At the AQ he also collects liquid testimonies from different parts of Tarragona. More than twenty samples of rancio wine full of age and expression. From the casks of Noemí Poquet in Vinebre, from the wisdom of August Vicent in Gratallops, from the heritage treasured in the Cooperativa del Masroig and from the empire of Elies Gil in Viñas del Convento, in Horta de Sant Joan. Writing the history of a unique, forgotten heritage. "Haute cuisine must bring these wines closer and remove them from the romanticism of dessert," he warns. "Rancio wine has an outlet in a tasting menu, like sherry. It reaches where still wine cannot. At the restaurant, we'll serve a gelled artichoke puree, asparagus, and anchovies, which would go very well; the pairings are wide-ranging, also with stewed oxtail," he confirms. "I grew up in an eighth-floor apartment in Valencia without a wineskin or a corner, but now I've seen the epic. Rancio is a reflection on time," he comments. These are wines marked by oxidation, aged in the sun and sunshine, and sometimes by the system of criaderas and soleras, with a very old first wineskin, the godmother.

Sergi Figueras and Antonio Lopo are two prestigious sommeliers, trained for years in fine dining. In 2016, they ventured into creating bespoke wines under the Thunder Wine Makers brand, inspired by the rock music of AC/DC. Their first steps led them to elevate table wine to a prestigious level in fine restaurants and transform it into a value-added product. "It's always had negative connotations because it was cheap and not particularly good. We've gone further. Wine is also an image; it's as important as a designer chair," insists Figueras, best sommelier in Spain and Catalonia in 2012. The restaurants Direkte Boqueria, Àbac, El Grau del Os, and Can Jubany have trusted his winemaking judgment. en cuatro manos and the Tarragona region are the origin of many of his creations. "In some cases we make blends, and in others we harvest and bottle. The idea is to always be fully involved, but it depends on each winery," he clarifies.

"I wanted to wake up at home and pick up my daughter. After the verdict, I left. We celebrated later in Sanlúcar de Barrameda and in Puerto de Santa María, at Tohqa." Eloi Cedó, an agricultural engineer and oenologist, is one of the most clairvoyant voices of the natural wine movement. Born in Tivissa, in 2023 he won the Vila Viniteca couples tasting competition in Madrid with sommelier Nacho Martínez. This year they are on the waiting list; in three minutes the tickets for the 17th edition, which is held in March, sold out. 135 competing couples and 50,000 euros of financial prize money between winners and finalists. Cedó allocated the money to "the treasury shake-up that year and the income tax return the next. To plug holes and live." He is sincere. He is careful with the language. He comes from a humble family in the Ribera de Ebro: "There is no romanticism in my dedication to wine, but rather a vineyard landscape and an agricultural union in decline."